🔗 Share this article All Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London. A Unexpected Honour This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly astonished. “I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Character of Modesty This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner. A Namesake Dish: Tantuni However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency. The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside. The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together. Beyond the Basic Tantuni Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste. Outranking the Stars Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price. A Philosophy of Warmth It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner. “I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Story of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says. A Achievement for the People This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.